Camino Day 16 to Portomarin

Cool breezes, sunshine, cafe/bars, cows and sheep marching toward us on the trails on their way to their fields to munch breakfast, stone churches, a golden eagle, gentle uphills and downhills, stronger legs, feet, and backs, fresh mowed hay, sneezes, mushy cow poop on the trails, pilgrims with blisters and ace bandages...not us, happily...more penitential steps to climb, beer before noon on the plaza in Portomarin, a 30 euro room with shiny, Woolworth-pink and black bedspreads and everything else one needs...not yesterday´s quaint farmhouse but its own funky charm.